Goldmarke All Purpose Folding Scythe

Conveniently collapsible and fantastically sharp…

We were first drawn to this general-purpose Austrian-made tool for the handy-dandy ability to fold it up and easily carry it on the occasional days when we bike out to the fields. 

And it serves that purpose wonderfully well. (It’s also nice to collapse it down when it has to fit in a car trunk or get stored away in the shed).

What we got along the way however was an exceptionally efficient-shaped blade that cuts swaths in fast, almost breathless sweeps and holds a very, very (!) sharp edge longer than most of our other blades. (The term Goldmarke refers to the highest tier of scythes forged in a factory using the best Austrian high carbon steel.)

Measuring at 65-cm in length, this is a fine blade for general cutting of grassy areas and meadows, cutting a plot of rye or spelt, and in our experience – this is one of our preferred blades for working methodically through over-grown dry grass (which is sometimes deflected by scythe blades rather than cleanly cut). The blade additionally features a reinforced stone point tip which limits damage when the blade hits unseen obstacles. 

If you are an infrequent scythe user, this is a no-fuss, easy tool to use and maintain. All of our standard whetstones are compatible with this blade, just know that the Blaumarke stone takes off the most metal and is great for very dull blades, the Styria blade takes off a bit less metal and is good for blades that are getting dull, while the Fux stone is good for keeping a sharp blade sharp while you are working. Like other central European scythes, with extended use this blade will benefit from peening (thinning the cutting edge), using a peening jig or hammer and anvil set-up. 

When setting up this tool, there are a few simple points to keep in mind: 

First, the hafting angle -- the angle of the blade to the snath (aka handle) can be adjusted slightly by locking the tang into one of several holes. A more “closed” angle will make cutting easier but it will take a smaller bite out of the grass with each sweep of the blade – consequently you’ll move more slowly to cut areas. Conversely a more open angle will cut a bigger area, but it can be harder if your scything technique (especially your torso rotation) is not refined. 

Second, the wooden hand grips can be adjusted along the length of the steel snath to establish the most efficient and ergonomic placement. Generally when holding the snath vertically while rested on the ground, the upper grip should be at about your shoulder socket, and the lower grip should spaced at about the top of your hip bone. The grips can be finicky to move, but with the locking screws loosened, they can be gently tapped into optimal positions with a mallet. They should also be treated with linseed oil as a preservative. 

Finally, the blade is held in place by tightening a wing nut over a lock washer. In our testing, hand tightening alone isn’t ideal for keeping the blade snug during use. A pliers is useful for firm tightening when you set up the blade for cutting.